It is a good indicator of potential for: wave damage to ships erosion of shorelines 7-1 Properties of Ocean Wavesħ Progressive waves are waves that move across a surfaceĪs waves pass, wave form and wave energy move rapidly forward, but not the water. Significant wave height is the average of the highest 1/3 of the waves present. 7-1 Properties of Ocean WavesĦ A fully developed sea means the wind-generated waves are as large as they can be under current wind velocity and fetch. Size and type of wind-generated waves are controlled by: wind velocity wind duration fetch original state of the sea surface As wind velocity increases: Wavelength period height increase, but only if wind duration and fetch are sufficient. Parts of a wave are: wave crest wave trough wave height (H) wave amplitude wave length (L) wave period (T) 7-1 Properties of Ocean Wavesģ Wave classification Wave period provides a basis for classifying wavesįigure 7-1a Wave Parameters Figure 7-1b Idealized Wave Spectrum 7-1 Properties of Ocean Wavesĥ Most of the waves present on the ocean’s surface are wind-generated waves 2 Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface
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